When your watch is dandy


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Jacquard silk straps by Ulturale for “1887”, an elegant model of the Swiss maison Eberhard & Co.

Sometimes, more than marketing, it’s a question of elective affinities.  At times the meeting of two companies is just something natural,  dictated simply by shared values and visions.

The historic Swiss watch manufacturer Eberhard & Co. recently re-established its headquarters in the “Maison de l’Aigle”, the historic baroque-style building in La Chaux-de-Fonds, built at the behest of the founder Georges-Lucien Eberhard. To celebrate this turning point, Eberhard & Co. inaugurated its first museum, offering enthusiasts the possibility to admire the watch creations that have marked over 130 years of industrial history.  A decisive step taken by the maison as part of its long-term vision, whose importance was highlighted by the launch of a new model that celebrates with its name the year of the company’s foundation:  Eberhard “1887”.

Mario Peserico, CEO of Eberhard & Co., is a loyal customer of tie group Ulturale, a brand with which he shares the same values of tailoring, historicity, timeless quality and a quest for innovation. Seeing the somewhat vintage and dandy aspect of the “1887”, he thought that it would be nice to make versions using the silk of Ulturale ties alongside those with traditional alligator leather straps.

Original collaboration

Thus was borne this original collaboration between two historic brands, met with enthusiasm by the Neapolitan company.  And which sparked research efforts to design a product that combined good taste with functionality. «We often set up partnerships with other companies, but this, due to its characteristics, was a completely new experience for us» says Francesca Marinelli, Ulturale Milano store manager. «We discarded the larger patterns, which within the limited width of a wrist strap would have been cut and so wouldn’t have had an optimal yield. Instead we concentrated on micro-patterns. We supplied the fabrics to the company that makes leather straps for Eberhard & Co. using laser cutting. The result was over ten samples, two in which the Jacquard silk was used with the back side of the fabric in sight, creating an original effect. In the end, two variants were chosen, one for each version of the dial: a fabric with a blue background for the one with rhodium-plated numbers and indexes and one with a brown background for gold-plated numbers and indexes. Both patterns correspond to ones that are regularly part of our collection».

Meticulous attention to detail

The “1887” model contains a caliber – an internal mechanism – that is new and exclusive, the EB140, entirely produced for Eberhard in La Chaux-de-Fonds, with particular technical and structural specifications.

The aesthetic aspect of the watch also reveals meticulous attention to detail. The lines are balanced, the steel case has a diameter of 41.80 mm, leaving ample space for a dial of extreme elegance. The style is a little bit retro, thanks to the “clou de Paris” workmanship and the trapezoidal date display already adopted by Eberhard & Co. in some historic models. The logo on the dial is part of company’s historic heritage and is documented in archives from the start of the 20th century.  The sapphire crystal case back  proudly displays the beauty of the EB140 caliber.

Vincenzo Ulturale, founder of the tie group that bears his family’s name, declared:   “We are proud of the splendid opportunity that Maison Eberhard has given us to share a project that celebrates excellence over time through exclusive materials, workmanship and ideas”.

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